first day in Paris

I took an early train from Beziers to Paris and arrived around 12:30 pm. Got to the hotel and MaryAnn (Wolcott) was already here. We are staying at a nice hotel in the Marais that takes dogs (small well-behaved ones which Angel is).

We walked to a small sidewalk cafe near the Bastille for "refreshment" and watched the parade go by. Paris is by far one of the best places to people watch. We then walked around the neighborhood - thought we would take in the Picasso Museum which is very near our hotel. It is still closed for renovation - till 2012!!!! Good grief what in the world are they doing to it? We came upon Place des Vosges which looked like an impressionist painting with lots of people sitting/lying on the grass. A man in uniform came running toward us "Madame, no chien, no chien." Yes Angel was thrown out of this lovely place. After a bit more walking it started to rain - not a downpour but enough that we definitely got wet.

Afterwards we came back and took naps - having just landed this was essential for MaryAnn. She caught her second wind and we headed out for the evening aroung 7:00 pm.

The evening weather was unbelievable. One thing about hot weather is that it makes you really appreciate the evenings. The city was alive with people outside walking, sitting in cafes, in parks. It stays light till 10 pm and the "light" is very beautiful on the city. We had apertif in a corner cafe across from the Bastille. I had a kir royale and MaryAnn had vin rouge - zinfandel that turned out to be Gallo. Then we walked to Ile St. Louis across the bridge to such a beautiful spot. The Ile was originally the cow pasteur. It is now rather its own little neighborhood and the tour books say many of its older inhabitants never leave it - even to go across the bridge into Paris proper. We watched the bateau mousches pass by and walked around the whole island - not hard to do as it is only two blocks wide and maybe seven blocks long.

We checked out the numerous restaurants as we walked - quite a few looked far too "touristy". We settled for one that looked quieter and and old on a corner. Its name was Ilot Vache (cow island). We picked well - it was wonderful. The Prix Fix menu was excellent and a very good value. I had lamb, MaryAnn had salmon. The appetizer we both chose was an avocat something or other, and as the woman sitting next to us described it "deconstructed guacomole." It was an unhurried delicious perfect Paris dinner.

After this meal we definitely needed more walking. We walked to Ile le Cite and behind Notre Dame. By now it was dark, the temperature delightful, and we walked along the Seine. Large numbers of people were sitting along the Seine on both sides many having, what appeared to be, quite fancy picnic dinners. Others having "take out" - everyone having plenty of wine. The scene was beautiful in the "city of lights," along the river, with Notre Dame and the Tower Eiffel in view. I took lots of pictures but question whether the light was sufficient for my little camera. Clearly the people out this night included tourists but also old and young Parisians with lots of young children even though it was after midnight. We walked to the hotel enjoying all the people who were out enjoying being outside on this summer night in one of the loveliest cities in the world.

Our hotel, the Villa Beaumarchais, was very well located in the Marais. I stayed here last fall and like it and found that it takes dogs. The room we were assigned this time, however, left some things to be desired. The bathtub shower was impossible to use without creating a pool of water on the bathroom floor. The damaged tiles showed that this was a continuing problem. Also the air conditioning didn’t work – a real problem during the hot Paris night. Even with a portable electric fan that was provided when we complained – the room was uncomfortable. Fortunately the following day we were able to change rooms and the rest of our stay was fine.

I'll post pics later