Local Wine Tasting

Yesterday my neighbor John took me to a winery right here in Abeilhan to wine taste.  There are many wineries in the area and a couple right here in my village (and of course the local coop).  This particular one is right around the corner from my house.  I've walked and driven past this place countless times last year and this year.  Who knew?????   The wine was absolutely excellent.  The winery is:

Domaine Saint Georges d'Ibry

This is a really busy time for the winemakers as the harvest is still on.  The winemaker/owner, Michel, and his MaryAnn, his wife, did a personal wine tasting for us.  The winery and vineyards have been in Michel's family for several generations.  Sadly he is pretty sure his only child, a son, doesn't want to continue it as he wants to be a pharmacist.  So at some future time Michel will probably sell it (though he is still quite young so it will probably be quite some time from now).

Michel was very generous with both his wine and his time.  He produces quite a few varieties of wines and I think we sampled almost all of them progressing through sauvignon, vionier, chardonay, and the on to the reds.  The reds were really interesting.  There was a very fruity light bodied red that is good served cold - a nice change from the rose here.  Then an excellent full bodied red named, appropriately, Excellence.  There were several wines that he makes that weren't available as they are already sold out.  We also tasted some nice dessert type whites - never my favorite - but one that I really did like that was not very sweet and I could imagine it paired with a "cheese course" of goat cheese with some honey on it.

Unfortunately he doesn't export any of his wines - doesn't need to and it costs too much.  I may try to bring home a couple bottles in my suitecase (I just mailed home some of my stuff so there just might be room).  I will certainly remember this winery and when I return will definitely pick some wine up during my next stay here (even if I have to drive some distance).

A Walk on the Wild Side

My friend Deb, who lives in Bize Minevois, invited me to tag along on the "walk" that a group of mostly French people from around her village do regularly.  They go on organized walks in various places around the Minervois.  Of course in typical French fashion following the walk they picnic on delicious food and wine

We met behind the post office in Bize and I was surprised at the size of the group - maybe 25 - and Deb said this was a small turnout.  Everyone was very friendly and energetic.  I also learned that France is a "small world".  Bize is quite some distance from Abeilhan (takes about 40 minutes to drive there).  One woman in the group, upon learning that I am staying in Abeilhan, told me her grandmother lived there.  A man then said that he is from Alignan du Vent which is the village next to Abeilhan.  Also in the group were three Americans, a couple who moved here from Berkeley and her uncle who is visiting from New Mexico and grew up in east San Diego County at the same time I did in west San Diego County.

We drove to the beginning and ending point of the walk on some pretty rough roads - in the USA - we would call them 4-wheel drive roads but here no problem you just drive your regular cars and they do just fine.

It was a beautiful sunny day without a cloud in the sky.  The walk began and ended on a pretty high hill with an even higher point above us with a cross on top.  Where we parked was shaded with plenty of open space for picnicing later.

Off we go

The paths we walked on were pretty cobbely.  You could walk too quickly because of it - would be really easy to badly twist an ankle.  I also soon learned that I needed a hat and water - neither of which I had brought.  The temperature climbed to I think high 80s or even 90.  Most of the time we were in the sun.



A very old well in a tiny village

I also soon learned this wasn't like a stroll of a walk.  I think "hike" is a better term.  It actually felt great but I did wish I hadn't left my bottle of water in Deb's car.



Wild mint



Deb and Bill check out the view

 



The countryside was really beautiful.  Along the way we helped ourselves to some of the grapes still on the vines.

The walk organizer had charted our path the previous day and marked it with red ribbons tied on trees now and then.  Once we got off track but only briefly.

Shadow tags along
 Terry and Bonnie's maltese/yorkie mix, Shadow, came along. She did really well. If I'd brought Angel, I would have been carrying her.

At the end of the walk, the leader invited the willing to climb to the top.  It was a real scramble and steep over rolks and through brambly bushes.


We made it and the view was worth it!

View from the Top

And then we scrambled back down and enjoyed a lovely picnic.  It was a great day.  I hope they do another "walk" while Sybil and I are still here.

A Beautiful Sunday Lunch with French Friends

Yesterday I had the great privilege to be invited to Sunday lunch at the beautiful home of Chantal and Jean Louis in my village. I feel so fortunate to be welcomed by these wonderful people. I met Chantal and Jean Louis through my delightful neighbors Suzette and Roger. The lunch group consisted of the close circle of friends here who get together regularly. Usually this is for appertifs at Suzette and Roger's or to a village event. This was the first time that I've been invited for a full meal and what a meal it was!

Lunch began at 12 noon and ended after 5 pm. The food was amazing - the absolutely wonderful quality, presentation, and quantity. Much wine was consumed over the 5 hour meal with John Louis literally bringing in armloads of bottles several times. Chantal is a superb cook. They were wonderful hosts sharing the serving tasks.

Their home is beautiful on the edge of the village - it abuts upon open space. They have built themselves an incredible back yard with piscine (that includes a waterfall) and patio. The setting was just lovely. It was a sunny day - and the sun got a little intense for awhile despite retractable awnings. When we were getting a bit too warm Mother Nature intervened providing clouds to cool things down and even a brief very light rain shower.

The conversation was lively with lots of laughs even though I could only get a tiny portion of what was being said. Myself and my neighbor, John, were the only native English speakers there (he's a Cockney Brit whose lived in the village for several years). Suzette and Yves also speak quite good English so they helped me out when I was totally lost. Even though my verbal communication was very limited I felt very comfortable and included.






This is our gracious hostess Chantal, chef extraordinaire.






And here is her beautiful table setting.












The piscine. John Louis and Chantal did this themselves including several mosaics on the bottom of the pool and garden wall.

Yves.

We had three different appetizers - each beautiful and delicious. This was tiny shrimps in a cool cream sauce presented with a slice of lime. Not pictured is the first appetizer which was a tiny cup of gaspacho.

Here is the third appetizer - grougeres (cheese puffs, scallops, and something that was delicious and had meat in it but I'm not sure what it was.

Conversation before lunch. That is me in the red shirt in back with Roger on my left. Suzette is in the blue dress.

Chantal serving the second appetizer.

Here is a happy, sleepy John at the conclusion of lunch.

John Louie brings out the main course - Bouride and potatoes.

Man talk. Left to right - Roger, John, Jose.

Close up of the Bouride. It is similar to Boullibase but is all monkfish (called Lotte here). Tastes of saffron and garlic - oh la la. The small toasts are spread with rouille which is a homemade mayonaise with garlic, saffron, and chile.

Most of us, despite already having had three appetizers, took second helpings.

Je Je

Jan and Lilia.

Yves and John

The cheese course OMG!!!

And after all that - here is dessert. Unbelievable.

Then cafe and a little Creme de Menthe to assist the digestion!

What a wonderful day. Merci, Merci Chantal and Jean Louis!!

When there are planes in the sky over Abeilhan - there's a fire

The weather now feels like Indian summer in Southern California. Cool in the morning and at night and quite warm mid-day. The humidity feels very low. Yesterday there was a strong easterly wind. Around 2 pm I thought - this feels like wildfire weather. At 5:30 pm I heard planes flying over my house and knew immediately that they were on their way to a wildfire.





I drove following the smoke as I was curious to see how the pompiers here handle the wildfires which seem to be quite common. This is the fifth one I've seen (last year and this year).





The fire was two villages away from Abeilhan - just north of Roujan. I was very impressed with the air attack. There must have been at least 10 small planes and one large air tanker. Unfortunately I just missed the air tanker for pictures. The smaller planes were approaching the fire like crop dusters. With all the air traffic I could only imagine what complicated direction it took to keep them from running into each other. Don't know whether they use the incident command system here but they obviously are doing something right. It looked like they got the fire under control pretty quickly.

The summer tourist mobs are gone. On Tuesday I was in Pezenas mid-day and it was beautiful without the crowds and in the autumn light. This is the main square which is mobbed in summer.

I am not usually a travel shopper. I learned long ago that it is just too much of a drag hauling stuff along with you and shipping is complicated AND expensive. However, I've made exceptions to my rule with the ceramics made by the artist at the right. She makes beautiful fruites and vegetables. Last year I bought some eggplants and figs and display plates. I fell in love with the lamps she makes and ordered two that are rose bouquets. I picked them up Tuesday and mailed them on Wednesday. They are due for delivery in San Francisco today. I have my fingers crossed they will be intact. I packed them really, really carefully so hopefully......

Main square in Pezenas sans people!

A typical Pezenas shop. These buildings are old village houses which have a courtyard inside. Very pretty.

Last Beach Days and Peak of the Vendange

Summer is winding down but the weather has stayed quite warm giving me a few more beach days. I went twice this past week thinking each time would be the last. It was really very delightful - the crowds have thinned and the water is absolutely the perfect temperature. I'm thinking that I may have a few more days of this paradise yet.

T
This is the place I usually go as it is directly south from here and easy to park with quick access to the beach. The last day I went the man who runs the "Bounty" asked where I was from and was thrilled when I told him I was an American from San Francisco. He said he spent 6 months there with a friend quite a few years ago and stayed in an apartment on Divisidero.

The main event in Abeilhan right now is the vendange (grape harvest). It is really at its peak - especially in the morning. There are all manner of vehicles towing trailers going out to the vineyards and returning with full loads. The local coop is a block from "my house" so it is pretty noisey with all the traffic going by the house.

Here is the coop.

Below you can see the harvest being unloaded. It is all the reds now.

Here are some vines that haven't been picked yet.

And these have been picked clean.

There is also a touch of fall in the air. You can tell by the slant of the sun and a few leaves are beginning to turn and fall.

I recently gained a new skill. As I've mentioned before the best oysters in France come from very close by here. They are absolutely the best I've ever had and are SO FRESH. Yesterday there was a stand outside the Servian supermarket. I'd recently checked the Internet to see the proper procedure for shucking an oyster. I also discovered that Mel & Sharon's kitchen had the special shucking tool. So I bought some huitres and gave it ago. It did require some strength and I was very careful but I am now an experienced oyster shucker.

Yesterday my friend Deb who lives in Bize Minervois invited me to come to her weekly lunch bunch. We went to a restaurant near her town. The group was apparently bigger than usual and we were seated at one long table, so I didn't get to get to know everyone. Those that I did, I enjoyed very much.

The food was good and I ordered escargots for my main course which did seem a bit odd. They were cooked in a tomato sauce - rather like you get here on mussels. The amount of snails was huge and I could only eat about half of them. I think with escargots - a little goes a long way!

I had meant to take a picture of the group and was preparing to do so as we were leaving but there was a big commotion and we saw several "pompier" (fire department) vehicles and police right outside the restaurant. We also saw that Nic's car (Deb's sister) was about to be ticketed. We didn't know where we had parked wasn't legal - but seeing that the fire trucks couldn't get by told why it was.

Not sure the nature of the emergency but the pompiers were putting on their gear.

Sunday in San Sebastian

Evening approaches on Bay Biscayne

Sunset looking west

Night fall on San Sebastian. What a beautiful place.

This was my last day in Spain. It was overcast but pleasant temperature. I decided to take the funicular down the mountain and walk along the beachwalk.

There were lots of walkers of all ages out for the day. I admired the architecture in this "new town" area. I've noticed that in most cities I've visited in Spain have very beautiful architecture whether it is medieval (Ovieta), ultra modern (Bilboa), early 20th century (Barcelona), Middle Eastern (Granada). Spaniards seem to have an "eye".

While I was walking I could hear loudspeakers across the Bay by the old town. As I got closer I could see there was a huge crowd all along the waterfront on that side of the Bay. Something was definitely going on - this couldn't be just a normal Sunday.

I saw this sign in Basque, Spanish, and English. Surely it was some sort of Basque event but who knows what. This is 911 but I don't think that explains it.,

As I got into the heart of the crowd I could see that many people were wearing matching colors - pink, green, orange but I don't have a clue of the significance.

There also looked to be a lot of sidre drinking.

There were a lot of flags of various colors. The crowd then headed into the old town narrow streets. I just "followed the crowd".

Here are a bunch of green dressed guys drinking a lot of sidre.

There was a band playing in the street.

A couple of red girls.

People started dancing.









Eventually I just walked back along the beach. Sure would like to know what it was all about.

I boarded the funicular and headed up the mountain to my wierd hotel/amusement park.