Monday, May 30, 2011

Last day in Russia

Where Lenin was on view at Gorky after his death.



The Politbureau


Gorky - Neda's house that became Lenin's house/office

Lilacs blooming. They smelled devine.

Picture of Lenin's true love - not his wife.



Lenin's transportation while at Gorky in the winter. Rolls Royce on skis.



Detailed map of southern Russia used by the Politbureau.



Communication system at Gorky - now that is scary.


Room at Gorky "winter garden"


Where Stalin slept at Gorky the night after Lenin's death.


Picture taking at the circus. Would you want your daughter to sit next to an orangutang?


Hello Kitty!


I couldn't believe they would have a trained camel act - but they did.



One ring circus


Our last day in Russia was very special. First we traveled to Gorky via minivan. Diana promised that “you will love it”. We knew it was the place that Lenin lived the last years of his life but no more.
We arrived at a security gate about 10 am. Diana left the bus and talked to the upper-middle-aged security guard with quite a mid-belly paunch and their conversation got pretty agitated. She returned to the bus saying, “No problem”. But soon the guard came back out of his shed and motioned her back to talk to him. This time both of them got pretty agitated and vocal. He was gesturing and obviously angry. She returned to the bus again saying, “No problem he just wants to officially register the vehicle.” He was looking at the license plate and writing something down. He called another official out to discuss whatever the problem was. Finally Diana went back and talked with him again, this time he opened the gate and we went through. She told us she told him we “are all retired” and therefore incapable of walking any distance. This way our vehicle was able to drive close to where we were going.
We passed a very modern, not very attractive Soviet-style large building that Diana said was the museum where we would have lunch later. Then we drove into Gorky Park which was open forest with some old fruit orchards, along with quite a few very happy-looking grazing horses.
Diane had told us the following story during our drive.
This property belonged to a Russian woman named Zena. She had been the daughter of a merchant but longed to be an aristocrat. She was quite beautiful and very smart. She married an older man from a well-to-do family when she was quite young and moved to Moscow. I remember that part very well but now must admit many of the rest of the story I don’t remember well other than…
She met another man while she was still married and fell madly in love. She divorced the first husband shocking everyone including her family. Most shocking she and the second man married and he did very well in business and became very active in society. She loved nice things and acquired many of them.
Here is where I am a bit confused in the story. I think he may have died and she remarried, or he had mistresses and she left him, whatever I think she married again and this time to an aristocrat who ended up being the mayor of Moscow. At some point that husband was arrested for stealing money, or accepting bribes, or something like that. Zena was humiliated and needed to leave Moscow. So she found the Gorky property and bought it taking her children with her. even started a small farm raising crops.
She was very happy at Gorky. She had a beautiful home built and they had a good life. Apparently they had frequent visitors who enjoyed the property as well. She established it also as a farm raising crops and livestock.
After the revolution the Gorky property was taken over by the government. Zena moved to Moscow where she lived till her death at 80+. Even though she lost all her grand possessions and property, and had many opportunities to emigrate she stayed in Moscow, living in a small apartment, and earned a living as a seamstress.
After Lenin suffered his first, of many, strokes, he went to live with his wife and a small staff at Zena’s Gorky. Apparently he had a strong family history of cardiovascular disease (like everybody in his family died of it at a young age). He was paralyzed on one side of his body and had severe mobility and speech problems. He improved with much work but then would have another stroke. He remained in charge of the Soviet government and continued to make decisions despite his physical limitations.

At this location they have built a separate small building to show what Lenin's apartment at the Kremlin looked like. They have furnished it with everything that was at that apartment.
There are a number of theories about Lenin's death. One is that he was poisoned. One is that Stalin had him poisoned. I suspect he just had another stroke since he had already had several. Of course since he had retained power even in his debilitated condition, the Soviets may have just gotten anxious and finished him off. There was competition as to who would lead after Lenin – Trotsky and some others. Lenin had picked Stalin to be his successor.
One thing that does seem evident from all we heard and saw during the visit – he was extremely intelligent, probably was motivated by trying to make things better for the Russian people, and was obviously well loved by them.
After Gorky we drove back to Moscow and dropped off some of our group by Red Square. As we did so we noticed a very large demonstration of people with pink balloons and wearing pink. It seemed unlikely that this was a "March for the Cure" for breast cancer. Afterwards we learned that this was a demonstration of gay folks. Apparently the gay demonstration was being held in the square simultaneously with a convention of ex-paratroopers – not a good mix. Apparently there was some sort of confrontation and violence.
Mike, Judy, Sybil, and I attended the Moscow Circus later that night. It was terrific. Although it is in a fixed location – big building – it is a very traditional circus with roustabouts, clowns, high wire acts, and animals. Other than the chimpanzee-in- silly-costumes act, I loved it. We were unable to take pictures during the actual circus but did take pictures on the way in. There we saw “up close and personal” a tiger, chimpanzee, bear, leopard, and a camel. Pretty unbelievable.

Friday, May 27, 2011

More Moscow

Our guide Diana



Lilacs


Lenin's tomb



New apartment building outside city center


Red Square


KGB apartments - straight ahead



One of the KGB buildings



In the shopping center


Bouquet at florest in shopping center





Exclusive shops at shopping center next to Red Square





Gold plated car (no kidding)



Impressive fountain - we got wet



The biggest bell in the world - never rung. When it cooled this happened.




Moscow

Church with golden domes - it is about to rain



Man cleaning the star on top



Most modern building in the Kremlin





Church at the end of Red Square.





This is a statute commenorating a General who never lost a battle.






Big building at the Kremlin




The main Kremlin church




Changing of the guard at the tomb of the unknown soldier.



A Metro station. They are spotlessly clean and quite beautiful. Also have full security. A terroist attach not to long ago killed about 60 people at this very station.



Farewell dinner one day early


This statue was commissioned by a group of Americans - to be Christopher Columbus. It was done in 1994. They had it done here as it was "cheaper". However once it was done the Russians decided they didn't want it so they changed the head to be Peter the Great.











Moscow isn’t what I expected – It is beautiful!
What a surprise. I expected Moscow to be dour, dingy, unfriendly, foreboding, and dangerous. Surprise it isn’t really any of those things – it is actually very beautiful. Oh sure – there are lots of traces of the bad old times but it is actually quite beautiful, modern, and in many ways seems more currently prosperous than Saint Petersburg.
We have another wonderful guide here, her name is Diana. She used to be a school teacher and she very much takes a teaching approach with us. She’s given us lots of helpful tips on such as how to:
• recognize words in this crazy alphabet
• get around on the Metro
• order food in restaurants when you have no clue what it says on the menu
She is also full of information on the if history of Russia and Moscow and what it is like to live here now. She doesn’t seem completely sold on the new form of government and points out that in quite a few ways things were better before. Don’t get me wrong, she is very critical of lots things under Communist rule too.
First of all – this place is huge – population is 17,000,000. Most people live in huge apartment buildings that surround the heart of the city and these go on for a very long way. I had the benefit of seeing the city well as we were flying in and could see the vast clusters of these highrise apartment building that went on forever. While some of these are old and very Soviet looking – quite a lot of them are much newer and are actually rather attractive. As we past them coming in from the airport, Diana pointed out that for the people that live in them things are much more convenient than living in the city center as there are parks, schools, child care, supermarkets, etc. located nearby. Public transportation is plentiful. Despite that traffic is HORRIBLE!!!
We couldn’t believe the drive from the airport. It was only maybe 40 miles to our hotel and it took 2 hours. In the city it is pretty much grid lock most of the time and smells of exhaust fumes. Apparently lots of people just want to drive their cars since they have one. We saw one car that was, believe it or not, gold plated!
It also feels pretty safe here. There don’t appear to be as many potential pick pockets and thugs as I expected. Still a good idea to be vigilant in crowded places of course.
We’ve done quite a bit of sightseeing mostly on foot and my feet know it. Right now I’m sitting on my bed with my legs up and that sure feels good.
Yesterday we walked to Red Square – pretty close to our hotel. Unfortunately we weren’t able to see the square itself completely empty as there is some kind of event going on with tents and booths with kids doing lots of sports and talent competitions.
We have walked past the KGB headquarters repeatedly as it lies between our hotel and Red Square. It consists of several large buildings – office buildings and one apartment building. These of course are heavily guarded.
We’ve also seen several shopping areas. One was particularly ritzy including Cartier. Another we walked through and it is a huge complex that has been around a long time. It is adjacent to Red Square and has many very nice stores, some exclusive and others that are just very nice. There is a large food store that is sort of like Harrods in London with anything you could possibly want to drink or eat (meats, fish, deli, a huge gourmet section, wines, liquor, and on and on.
Apparently 80% of all the wealthy Russians live in Moscow and it shows. This does not appear to be a financially struggling place at least not in the areas we’ve seen. Also – there are some tourists but not nearly the volume we saw in St. Petersburg.
We’ve learned that the population of Russia is declining. The birthrate is only 1.3 children per couple and the average life expectancy for men is only 57. Not sure why it is so low. In past it was blamed on alcoholism and smoking but apparently those are improving. Also learned that during WWII 27,000,000 people lost their lives.
Today we spent most of the day in the Kremlin complex. The public is able to visit about 25% of the Kremlin. It is the seat of the government now and it was at the time of the Czars as well so there are many very old buildings and churches and a few new ones. Of course there is a big security presence and quite a few black cars driving around with tinted windows.
At one of the churches we visited today there were extensive icons on the wall. Diana pointed out that on one of them that showed the instruments of torture in hell, two of the instruments were a hammer and sickle. This was apparently derived from the Old Testament. Interesting hmm?
Also interesting…. During WWII when the Nazis had surrounded Moscow and things looked very bleak, Stalin went to church and prayed for two days. Also interesting, Lenin is preserved in his tomb and is on display. We didn’t go. Diana told us that he had planned to be buried but Stalin decided to have his body preserved. It is apparently still in pretty good shape – for a dead person.
We had dinner tonight with “our group”. Usually the farewell dinner is held the last night but since several of us are going to the Moscow Circus tomorrow night, we had the dinner tonight. It was in a very nice restaurant nearly across the street from our hotel. I’ve really enjoyed everyone in the group – they are a great bunch. See the farewell picture.

Thursday, May 26, 2011

St. Petersburg day 2 - Catherine's Palace

From the river in the rain



Group photo Farewell dinner



We'll miss you Mina!



Men's acupella singers at Peter & Paul






Czar burials at Peter & Paul






Catherine Palace




Catherine Palace







Svetlana guided us for the second day. She taught us a whole lot about Russian history and the Romanovs which I won’t repeat here other than to say that they were a wild bunch and a whole lot more interesting than the Tudors.
It was a rainy day but it the city was still very beautiful even in the wet and gray.
We visited Peter & Paul fortress which was pretty interesting.
The afternoon was the really big deal as we drove to the Catherine Palace outside the town of Pushkin. To say that this place is grandiose is truly and understatement. While it is really beautiful, it does make you identify with the masses who didn’t have anything while the Romnovs spent, and spent, and spent.
Not pictured – the unbelievable Amber Room.
We had a farewell dinner together this night which was really great. It has been a wonderful group – all fun and interesting and best of all good sports. We will miss several who aren’t coming along to Moscow. We will also miss our wonderful Mina. She is really special and we love her. I am hoping she’ll come to visit us in California!!
After dinner, we met up with my friends Tim & Sharon Wood. They are traveling on their own though Eastern Europe for two months – such brave souls. Anyway it was just great to see them, hear about their travels, and just plain talk about stuff with friends from home.

Saint Petersburg Day 1 - Churches, Hermitage, Ballet




Church of the Spilled Blood - My favorite


St. Isaacs - you can see the dome from all over the city.














Hermitage




Hermitage Etrance








VanGogh








Matisse




Judy & Mike at the ballet



Sybil at the ballet



me


We joined out local guide, Svetlana, for a driving tour of the City. It was a beautiful sunny day. Mina assisted her and we got not only a great tour of the city but also lots of information about its history.
St. Petersburg was founded by Czar Peter the Great 300 years ago so it is a relatively new city. He wanted Russia to become a real European city and so moved the country’s capitol there from Moscow. Its architects were European. The city is “larger than life” and apparently so was Peter. He was very tall, like 6’7” and quite a guy. He was “into” lots of things e.g., science, art, military science. He also completed medical school and liked to practice dentistry on his friends. (We saw a collection of his various dental tools.) At one point Svetlana was telling us how Peter once came across a group of soldiers who were doing something they shouldn’t and had a rabbit with them. Peter picked up the rabbit and kissed it Mina commented that “He was probably just trying to get a look at the rabbit’s teeth.” Mina is very funny.
The city was first named Petrograd, then it was changed to Leningrad, and then back to St. Petersburg. It has a population of 8 million, most of whom live outside of the old city in huge apartment buildings built in Soviet times.
Svetlana told us a lot about how things were during Soviet times, very unpleasant. She was very critical of their treatment of art, schools, etc. She was definitely not a fan of theirs. It was obvious how much she loves the City although life is still pretty hard for the average person. She also told us how excited everyone was when Gorbachav started the reforms but that they soon lost confidence in him. She seems to think Putin is doing a good job.
We visited the St. Isaacs Cathedral. Very beautiful. Then we went to the Church of the Spilled Blood (or something like that) which I liked even more since it was “more Russian”. It got its name because one of the Czars was assassinated there where his legs were shot off and he bled to death.
The finale of the day was the Hermitage which I must say is quite overdone. Those Czars sure were grandiose.






























































In the evening we attended Swan Lake ballet in a beautiful theater. The prima ballernina was terrific. The rest not so much. But all in all definitely worth doing.