Friday in Lisbon

Friday in Lisbon
Last night we had an excellent, very gourmet, dinner in the Pousada’s restaurant. It was right across the street from the hotel. There was a large group of middle-aged men wearing suits in the bar when we arrived. Our waiter explained that they were the military officers from the base right behind the hotel. They have a large dinner party at the restaurant every year and this was the night.
The most interesting thing about the restaurant is that it is located in the Royal Palace and was originally its kitchen. There is a big hearth in the middle of the room with a sort of huge stone hood over it. It was obviously where they roasted meat. There is a giant wrought iron spit in the center. The kitchen for the restaurant is not in another room and the “old kitchen” is just the quite attractive restaurant.
This morning I got up early and went downstairs willing to give the hotel’s internet computer a try. I told the desk clerk I wanted to use it for an hour and handed him the 5 Euro fee. He looked embarrassed and said for me to keep a secret but to go ahead and use it free. Another very nice person we’ve encountered.
That is something that stands out about our visit to Spain and Portugal. We continue to meet people who go out of their way to be helpful and friendly. Before I left on this trip some friends who had recently visited Spain told me that the people weren’t very friendly and that they were annoyed when your mispronounced their Castillian Spanish. We have not found that at all. People have been very friendly and patient with us even when we completely mess up their language. Of course we don’t speak Portugese (so far only one word we are sure of – Obrigado – which means thank you). However, if they don’t speak English they can usually sort of understand Spanish.
Today we headed into Lisbon. It is noticeably much poorer than its counterparts in Spain. Many buildings are in need of paint or plaster repair. We took a double decker bus ride to get the general “lay of the land” which was very useful. It is a pretty city with a big waterfront. Portugal owes its success to the sea so there are many monuments to it. The waterfront smells like fish (not particularly fresh fish). Lisbon does not look like it was ever so grand as Madrid, Granada, or Barcelona. Even its Royal Palaces seem modest.
After our bus tour we wondered around the old section of Lisbon. We found a “marching” band of about 20 people (looked like University students) playing pretty good music – many American tunes (things like The Quiet Jungle the Lion Sleeps Tonight). Then we hiked up the hill and visited the Moorish Castle which was very small but well preserved. There was a man playing beautiful guitar music in an open area.
On our way down the hill we stopped at a wine bar whose proprietor prided himself on having over 100 wines from all over Portugal. I had a white, Judy a red, and Michael a beer (he is somewhat frustrated because it is impossible to find a dark beer here). The wines were delicious mine from the North, Judy’s from the South. Actually all the Spanish and Portuguese wines we’ve had have been really good. I wish I could remember what their names were.
Saturday am
I am finishing writing this before we hit the road this morning heading inland on our way back to Madrid. Can’t believe this segment of my trip is ending. It’s gone really fast. So far I sure am not homesick although I do miss Angel.
Last night we returned to Lisbon for dinner and Fado music. Fado is their traditional singing – usually very plaintive. We parked in a garage in the main square and then took a cab. The area where the Fado singing is is supposed to be quite dangerous (at least on your valuables). It consists of tiny alleys, little bars and restaurants, and apartments. Very dark and dingy. The cab stopped on a street and pointed up the hill saying it was too hard to drive there. We walked up the hill not sure of where we were going. Judy stopped to ask an older woman wearing an apron. Not only did she tell us where it was, but she took Judy’s arm and escorted us. She warned us to “watch your paper.” We think she was referring to money.
We were met at the door by a fat waiter who seated us in the restaurant. The “show” had already started. We ordered our food (which was ok) and watched/listened to the show. We ended up seeing it 3 times. It repeated (although) the songs varied every 45 minutes. There were several singers – the waitress (very pretty, dressed in black, good voice), the waiter (very fat, incredible voice and emotion – reminded us of Pavarotti), a blind man (who stood outside the front door between shows, very well dressed, great voice), and then one of the cooks (a female, very good voice). It was a great experience.
We walked down the hill, took a cab to our car, and headed home to the hotel. Bye Bye Lisbon.