Train Ride Up the Mountains to Cathar Country

Yesterday my friend, Vol, and I took the Fenouilledes Tourist Train up a gorge in the Pyrenees into Cathar Country. Cathars were a Christian sect beginning in the 11th Century and flourishing in Languedoc until they were slaughtered by the Catholics - "Onward Christian Soldiers". All that is left of them are remnants of some of their castles.

The train that we boarded looked pretty modern. I was surprised because it was advertized as very old.



The trip began in a small town just north of Perpignon. The landscape here is quite different from that around where my village is. Here it is much more arid, rocky, and has sage brush. It still has some vinyards but nothing as dense as in my area.

It is beautiful though with the Pryenees rising west and north. It was a perfect day. Not a cloud in the sky but cool and really pleasant.

The views along the way were beautiful. I liked these haystacks.

As we traveled up the gorge and came to higher elevations the countryside changed remarkably with pine forests and deciduous trees. We could see some of the Cathar castle ruins but most were very far away and diffucult to photograph.

The train crossed a number of old bridges.

About halfway in our ride we switched to the antique train with open cars and a steam engine. Once it started we decided it was acutally powered by burning coal. It belched thick, black, acrid smoke. It was enough to take your breath away. We heard someone in back of us gasp (in french) "Help. We need oxygen."

Even though we were in the last car, the furthest from the source it was pretty awful.

Here is some smoke passing by our side of the train.

Eventually they switched the engine to another old one, but one that wasn't producing this kind of noxius fumes. What a relief!

This is the largest Cathar castle we saw.

All along the way people madly waived at us - and we waived back. Everyone waived - mothers pushing their kids in strollers, motorists waiting for the train to pass, roadside workman, and people from their windows - like this woman.

Here are some kids in theirng backyard waiving.

Guess there isn't a lot going on and the train passing a couple times a day is a big deal.

Looking out a tunnel window as we arrive to our destination - something like Atax. It is a very pretty town with a good restaurant. Vol and I were the first off the train and headed straight to the restaurant to make sure we got in. When we arrived there was no one their but the staff. Within 10 minutes there wasn't a vacant seat.

After lunch we reboarded the train for the ride back down the gorge. Here is Vol looking happy. We'd had a nice lunch and were looking forward to the return trip. It didn't last long. There were two cars with roofs on them. However, we weren't permitted in them even though we were in the front of the line. Apparently some people had special reservations.

As we waited for the train to depart we became aware it was very, very hot (hottest I've been since I arrived here). The direct sun was hard to take. Boy did I wish I'd brough my big sunhat!! After the train got moving it was slightly more comfortable but not a lot. Again they switched us to the newer train and since it had regular train cars were hopeful that it would be more comfortable. Wrong! Now even though we were out of the direct sun the train cars were very crowded and it was hot, humid, and even though the windows were open it didn't feel like a breath of air. People were also sweating like mad (and there was pretty thick body odor).

The hot ride down. We were sure glad to see the train station and made a beeline to the car and turned on the air conditioning.

Once I was more comfortable it was easier to appreciate what an awesome place we had just been. Next time I would take - my sun hat, some sun screen and my bathing suit. Next time I would take advantage of the big swimming pool
at the destination stop. It sure looked more inviting after we'd been sitting in the full sun waiting for the train to leave.